Taquería La Mexicana

Flautas to shout about

by Steve Almond

on the cheap

New York Soup Exchange, May 4 Fasika, April 20 Darwin's Ltd., April 13

Pity the poor flauta! While other staples (burrito, enchilada, taco) continue to grab top billing, the flauta remains the ugly stepchild of the Mexican menu. Taquería La Mexicana is doing its share to change that, by serving up what ranks among the area's finest.

This cigar-shaped beauty consists of a corn tortilla, stuffed with spiced chicken or potatoes, then deep-fried, smothered in red or green sauce, and served with fresh pico de gallo and guacamole or sour cream. The combination of crunch and spice -- along with the good old calorific wallop of the frying process -- makes them irresistible. At $3.50 for three, you might as well order a six-pack.

Nor does the rest of the menu disappoint. The chalupas, two bucks apiece and piled precariously with meat, lettuce, tomatoes, and frijoles, will make you forsake Taco Hell's cardboard-and-catgut version forever. The tamales ($1) are pale and succulent, redolent of corn and steamed in their own husks. Did we mention the chilies rellenos ($5.50)? This pair of musky poblano chilies is baked to tenderness, draped in asadero cheese, and packed with your choice of pork, beef, chicken, or potatoes with chorizo. In fact, all orders are made fresh, in an open-style kitchen, by a refreshingly friendly staff. This is the kind of food you envision when someone suggests Mexican: cheap, hearty, and dangerously addictive.

Taquería La Mexicana, located at 247 Washington Street, in Somerville, is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Call (617) 776-5232.

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