The Boston Phoenix
October 12 - 19, 2000
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Keep your nose clean
by Julia Hanna
This ridged, flaky pastry resembles a smaller version of the lobster tail, that
North End blowout specialty gushing with custard filling. The rewards of
sfoliatella, however, are more subtle. The crispy triangular wedge is filled
with a mixture of yellow cream and boiled semolina and flavored throughout with
hints of orange and cinnamon. And you'll find it easier to maintain an air of
Continental, espresso-sipping cool when you sample this particular indulgence.
The interior is moist (somewhere between cake and pudding), but you won't end
up with cream on the end of your nose.
Sfoliatella sell for $1.50 each at Modern Pastry, 257 Hanover Street in
Boston, (617) 523-3783, and 20 Salem Street in Medford, (781) 396-3618.
The Noshing & Sipping archive