The old Paramount Deli was the last place on Beacon Hill where you could get
char-grilled hamburgers as flat as coasters, wrapped in wax paper and
accompanied by a half-sour pickle. But despite the wonderful shish kebab and
the greasy-spoon charm (you could easily imagine John Belushi behind the
counter, bellowing, "Cheeseburger, cheeseburger!") the restaurant had been
slipping in recent years. We were glad to see a new owner, a new look, and a
new menu. The hamburgers are still there, slightly larger, leaner, and pricier
($4.75), along with a generous Greek salad ($6.25). Breakfast is still served,
as it should be, from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with an assortment of old-fashioned
omelets ($3.95 to $4.25) and stacked buttermilk pancakes ($4.50, with three
strips of crispy bacon). Despite the fresh flowers and the American Express
logo in the window, the Paramount hasn't lost its soul.
The Paramount Deli-Restaurant, located at 44 Charles Street (Beacon Hill),
in Boston, is open daily from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and for dinner (with table
service) from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call 720-1152.
-- Sarah Lydon