Burrito Max

Fans of Big Burrito, in Allston, will be pleased to discover that its owners have expanded their empire to Kenmore Square. The recently opened Burrito Max serves a menu identical to Big Burrito's, featuring tacos, chili, ribs, salads, and, of course, burritos. Like many of the Cal-Mex eateries that have sprung up in recent years, Burrito Max puts a lot of emphasis on the healthiness of its food -- so much emphasis, in fact, that the back of the take-out menu is a list of health facts. So we know we're eating fat-free salsa and sour cream, as well as low-fat black beans, rice, and chili.

The burritos ($3.95 to $5.50) are indeed huge, packed with fresh and spicy ingredients, and in some cases are so overstuffed that you'll need a fork to finish off the stray beef, chicken, pork, fish, or veggies. The tacos ($1.95 to $2.95), smaller and offered with the same fillings, make for a much lighter lunch. Quesadillas -- by far the least messy item -- come in standard (cheese, jalapeños, and onions) or meat versions ($2.95 to $3.75). For dessert, there's the deliciously sweet apple crispito (95 cents), which is a fried flour tortilla stuffed with apples and cinnamon.

Burrito Max is located at 642 Beacon Street (Kenmore Square), in Boston, and is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Call 266-8088.

-- Theresa Regli