The acid test

In wine, acid gives you a tingly feeling -- need we say more?

by Thor Iverson

If you've ever wondered why some people describe a wine as "good," while others feel themselves equipped to declare it "a zesty, mouth-filling wine, exhibiting papaya notes on the nose, an unctuous smoky leather and cassis palate, and an astringent finish," well, wonder no more. In my next five columns, I'm going to break down the major taste components of wine -- explain what they mean, why they're important, and how to identify them. Along the way, you'll pick up some of the strange vocabulary of wine writers. Over the next few weeks, I'll discuss tannin, sweetness, fruit, and balance; today, however, the topic is acid -- and I don't mean the stuff they passed out at Woodstock.

Acidity is a very easy thing to identify in food. Bite into a lemon, an onion, or a green pepper, and you'll have a mouthful of it. In wine, acidity takes two forms: the first is a tongue-tingling, zesty feeling that cuts through everything else. This sensation is most pronounced in the finish (aftertaste) as a lingering tickle -- a feeling not unlike that of the bubbles in sodas and sparkling wines. The second form is a little harder to identify: it's a sour (but not bitter) flavor that insinuates itself underneath all the other tastes in a wine. And though acid is, to some degree, present in all wines, it's most noticeable in white wines, and provides structure (or backbone) for the other components. In red wines, it's often masked by the tannins.

Now, of course, to the big question: why do you care? First, because acid changes the way wine tastes; with a little experience, you'll discover how the presence of acid can make or break an otherwise well-made wine. But second, you care because you usually drink wine with food, and the relative acidity of wine and food is of paramount importance. As a general rule, acidic wines pair well with acidic foods (like pasta with red sauce), but they also "cut through" creamy sauces. On the other hand, low-acid wines often taste thin and flabby (without substance) when matched with acidic food; they go better with heavier dishes (like chicken in a mushroom cream sauce) and simple preparations (like grilled meats or vegetables).

This concept is not lost on winemakers. Italian cuisine, with its heavy reliance on tomatoes, onions, and lemons (all acidic foods), matches very well with the (generally) higher-acid wines produced in Italy. On the other hand, "classic" French food -- with its heavy cream sauces and rich stock reductions -- goes well with lower-acid French wines like Bordeaux and Burgundy. To make it easier for you, here's an (incomplete) guide to wines and wine regions known for high or low acidity:

High-acid: Alsatian, German, most Italian, Chablis (the real French stuff, not the American jug wine), most rosés (except white zinfandel and other sticky "blush" wines), Beaujolais, dry wines from the Loire Valley (Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Vouvray sec), sauvignon blanc from almost anywhere, and almost all sweet white wines.

Low-acid: red Bordeaux, red Rhône, Australian reds, cabernet sauvignon, syrah/shiraz, merlot, and most sweet red wines.

In other wines, acid varies depending on the region, the producer, and the vintage. Here are some specific high-acid wines worth trying:

1995 Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese ($17.99). A pale, straw-colored German wine; scents of mushroom, lemon, apple, and soil rise from the glass. There's a surprise when it hits your tongue: a viscous, flinty sweetness offset by the strong acidity (which makes it seem less sweet than it really is).

1995 Henri Bourgeois Sancerre La Bourgeoise ($22.99). This French white from the Loire Valley has an incredible flinty aroma (which comes from the soil in which the grapes are grown), with creamy apple and lemon-lime flavors.

1994 Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve ($13.99) If you read my last column and did your homework, you may have already had this Alsatian wine. It has tingly pear and grapefruit aromas and flavors, with a steely core.

1995 Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay Indian Wells Vineyard (Columbia Valley, Washington) ($16.99). Constantly changing waves of apple, gravel, orange peel, and grapefruit aromas are followed by buttery (yet slightly sour) orange and caramel flavors. The finish is reminiscent of maple syrup and oak, with a lingering acidic buzz.

1994 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale ($13.99). A light ruby-colored Italian red, with an earthy, smoky nose. Cherry and raspberry fruit explodes in the mouth.

Thor Iverson can be reached at wine@phx.com.

---

The Uncorked archive

---