Antipodal whites, mate?

Wine from the land down under

by David Marglin

They've been making wine in Australia since the 1830s, but in the past decade Australian wines have made huge gains in both recognition and market share in this country, particularly on the East Coast. (Left Coast folks may feel threatened by the competition -- or maybe they're jealous of the quality and the eminently reasonable prices.)

Australian wines, made mostly in Victoria and the south, are often massive -- especially the whites. New Zealand, too, has been producing some impressive sauvignon blancs and chardonnays, but as befits the character of the country, its wines are more reserved and understated. This week we'll explore some precocious representatives of the species -- some of the finest white wines available from the lands down under.

Many Australian wines are extreme, as if they were trying to one-up California in every way. The first thing you find with pretty much every Australian chardonnay, for instance, is a big, floral bouquet that often yields to huge oaky flavors on the front of the mouth. The wine industry in Australia is dominated by major wine corporations, which own wineries like Rosemount, Penfolds, and Lindemans. These conglomerates churn out quite satisfying wines for moderate prices, yet they tend to be similarly styled: big, not too complex, with approachable flavors. I'll happily serve Lindemans Padthaway Chardonnay for $11 a bottle, and I can also recommend as a party wine the Penfolds sémillon-chardonnay blend for seven bucks a throw. And don't be afraid to fork over 12 bills for your basic Rosemount Estate chard.

The dominance of the big companies means that these obvious wines may be the easiest ones to start with. Another one to look for is Wolf Blass, which is a negotiant -- in other words, it buys grapes to make into wine rather than growing its own fruit (the President's Label chardonnay is a perfectly potable table wine).

But I'd really encourage adventurous buyers to look for niche wines -- affordable, quirky, harder-to-find stuff. My own mission is to find winning wines that you can't just march down to your corner packie and pull off of the shelves. Winemakers like Hardys, Henschke, Veritas, Yalumba, and Chateau Reynella can all produce wonderful, big, mouth-filling wines, and these cutting-edge vintners, while not yet particularly well known in this country, are clearly destined to become stars.

Compared to the more extreme Australian whites -- such as the lush, melony sémillons (the varietal that accounts for some 70 percent of Australian whites) and the almost overwhelmingly oaky chards -- the sauvignon blancs and chardonnays grown in New Zealand tend to be delicate and even a touch austere. The hottest (indeed, you might say, the smokin'-est) region of New Zealand for white wines is Marlborough. By now almost every wine drinker has heard of Cloudy Bay, which may be New Zealand's most recognized export besides lamb and Granny Smith apples. The country also produces a host of world-class chardonnays, such as Kumeu River and Goldwater, that are more difficult to find but entirely worth the search. And if you enjoy sauvignon blancs, you can find great New Zealand examples for less than $20. Although sauvignon blancs have more acidity than most chardonnays, these New Zealand versions tend to be supple, balanced, and polished, with a light pale color and clean flavors. Very quaffable, and very affordable.

So though big and renowned can be better in some instances -- and more convenient in most -- when it comes to exploring the offerings of the Southern Hemisphere, tremendous wines can come in smaller, often more obscure packages. And you need not be sheepish about giving them a try.

Australia

** Lindemans Padthaway Chardonnay South Australian 1996 ($9.95). Your basic Aussie chard, barrel-fermented in French oak, not too dry but a tad tart, offering hints of melon and fig with a subtle oak background. A good grilled-swordfish wine, it needs food accompaniment. Serve really cold.

** Chateau Tahbilk Marsanne 1995 ($11.99). Vanilla bouquet, with slight birch nose. A bit pétillant (that is, almost bubbly) with some wafts of orange and clove flavor. A pleasant potpourri wine, great with Peking duck or anything pungent.

**1/2 Hermitage Road Chardonnay 1996 ($10.99). An opulent wine for the money, reminiscent of bell pepper and citrus. Lush finish.

**1/2 Rosemount Estate Sémillon 1995 (Show Reserve, Hunter Valley, Australia; $21.99). Loads of vanilla and still a bit young, but with a sort of willowy mellowness. Hints of mace in the finish. A nice beast, if a bit wild.

New Zealand

***1/2 Goldwater Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) 1996 ($19.95). This is the goods, with a full floral finish that lingers and even loiters. More apple than pear, with an enticing bouquet and a honeysuckle essence. Plenty o' fruit. One to cherish.

*** Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 1996 ($16.95). This wine has been out for a couple of months (remember: it's harvested six months earlier than US wines), and it is already almost impossible to find outside of restaurants. If you see it, go for it: this is a clean specimen with a light foliage scent, an almost vegetal bouquet, and wonderful balance. It is never boring.

David Marglin can be reached at wine@phx.com.

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