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Magnificent Muffins
A line on good breakfasts
BY NINA MACLAUGHLIN
Previous Columns

It’d be easy to miss Magnificent Muffins. It’d be easy to stroll right by and not take a second glance at the tiny storefront. It’d be easy to let it dissolve into the row of anonymous shops across the street and around the corner from the fire station in Teele Square.

It’d be easy if there weren’t a line out the door pretty much every morning of the week.

People queue up, order coffee, muffins, or breakfast sandwiches, and jostle around the narrow space by the counter. It’s worth waiting in line. It’s even worth nearly getting an elbow in the face as some overeager Tufts kid reaches for the plate of free muffin samples. The place resembles a booth more than a breakfast restaurant. But while the space is small, the muffins ($1.25; $6.49/six; $11.99/dozen) are giant. The muffin heads, prized like the tail of the lobster or the heart of an artichoke, are the size of a CD case, with a mound of moist sweet dough on top. And on any given morning there’s an expansive flavor selection. You can always find muffin stalwarts like blueberry, corn, and chocolate chip, but the board often reads like an ice-cream shop, with choices like raspberry-mocha, pistachio, apple-cinnamon, pumpkin-spice, banana-walnut, and sour-cream coffeecake, among others.

All the flavors we’ve tried (maybe 10 by now) have been delicious — fresh and even warm out of the oven. But it’s difficult to say which are more popular, the muffins or the breakfast sandwiches. You can get egg and cheese on a bagel or English muffin for a buck and a half. Prefer a croissant? Add 50 cents. Like a protein bomb in the morning? You can add bacon, ham, sausage, or Canadian bacon to the egg and cheese for another dollar.

A dollar will also get you one of the best cups of coffee around (double that for an extra-large shot). Everything Magnificent Muffins does, it does well. To a devoted — and sizable — morning crowd, it’s certainly a place worth noticing.

Magnificent Muffins, located at 1118 Broadway, in Somerville, is open Monday through Friday, from 6 a.m. to noon, and Saturday and Sunday, from 7 a.m. to noon. Call (617) 628-9000.


Issue Date: November 14 - 20, 2003
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