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Cancun Express
Location isn't everything
BY LARYN IVY
Previous Columns

Wedged between discount fabric stores and luncheonette-style sandwich shops on the outskirts of Downtown Crossing, Cancun Express is hardly the type of place one might expect to find a good, authentic Mexican meal. However, if you look past the location, the formica tabletops (boasting hot sauces and Italian dressing, of all things), and the kitschy décor, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the menu.

The kitchen and order counter are at the front of the small restaurant. The menu, which offers a host of made-to-order Mexican standards and specialties, is on a board running the length of the wall above the counter. Everything in this hidden gem is made fresh — from the tortilla chips used for the heaping platters of nachos with cheese ($5.25), chicken ($5.50), or ground beef ($5.50) to the zesty pico de gallo.

For salad-inclined lunchers, Cancun Express offers a variety of taco salads served in a crisp tortilla shell: chicken ($6), ground beef ($6), steak ($7), or vegetarian ($5). With lettuce, cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole, and choice of topping, the salads can almost make you forget that’s what you’re eating.

Tacos are available with three different shells — soft corn or flour tortillas, or crispy corn (think Old El Paso) shells with lettuce, cheese, and salsa. You can also select meat ($1.75), beans and cheese ($1.25), and fajita meat ($2.25). The bean-and-cheese taco features a delicious combination of slow-simmered black beans (not the refried pintos of some restaurants) and tangy Mexican cheese.

Freshly made quesadillas include your choice of filling between two flour tortillas oozing with cheese, peppers, mushrooms, and onions, topped with cool guacamole, spicy salsa, and sour cream ($5–$6.50). The enchilada plate ($8) offers three corn tortillas wrapped around grilled chicken, steak, or ground beef and topped with a red or green enchilada sauce (go green). It’s served with a heaping mound of black beans crowned with Mexican cheese and a large portion of slow-cooked, zingy red Spanish rice with peppers and onions.

Cancun Express, located at 86 Bedford Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday, from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call (617) 482-8899.


Issue Date: December 3 - 9, 2004
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