Great Wall Chinese Restaurant could be more aptly called Hole-in-the-Wall, but then we’d be leaving out the Great — which, in this case, might well refer to the food. It’s a tiny place, tucked between a convenience store and a dry cleaner in Jamaica Plain. But though it’s easily missed — or possibly even avoided, due to its misleading appearance as just another mediocre Chinese joint — the fact is, the food is actually much better than the exterior suggests.

The inside is white-walled and brightly lit, offering only two tables and a large counter for take-out. As in most Chinese restaurants, the menu is huge, but the best thing is that most entrées come in your choice of either pint- or quart-size, so you won’t find yourself ogling the menu, wondering, Just how small is the small? If you know your basic measurements and how hungry you are, you’re ready to order.

For appetizers, go traditional. The scallion pancake ($3.25) is fried to flavorful perfection, as is the crispy-yet-creamy crab Rangoon ($3.75) — and both are big enough to share. For the main dish, don’t miss the vegetable lo mein ($3.55/small; $5.50/large), a simple combination of egg noodles and fresh Chinese vegetables so delicious it’ll make you feel as though you’re eating lo mein for the first time. The kung po tofu ($3.95/$6.50), one of Great Wall’s specialties, is a heartier mix of chunky fried tofu, broccoli, snap peas, carrots, and water chestnuts, all tossed in a rich, nutty brown sauce with a slight kick. For meat lovers, the beef and broccoli ($5/$8.75) is the way to go: thin strips of tender beef and tons of fresh broccoli in a light, simple sauce.

The dominant take-out counter and lack of table service make Great Wall primarily a take-it-home-with-you experience. While you wait for your order, you can watch it being made in the open kitchen — or, even better, call your order in. Because what makes Great Wall even greater is that it delivers.

Great Wall Chinese Restaurant, located at 779 Centre Street, in Jamaica Plain, is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Call (617) 522-0277.