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Zoe’s Kitchen
Retro-fabulous
BY LIZA WEISSTUCH
Previous Columns

They are a cornerstone of this country’s history of eating, as American as apple pie and Happy Meals, yet they are few and far between. We’re talking about diners, and unless you were raised by wildebeests in the Savannah Woodlands, you probably have a few fond memories linked to a night spent in one. Sometimes you just need some good old-fashioned country-kitchen cooking, with emphasis on the kitsch.

So we say thank you to Theophilos Vallas, who opened Zoe’s Kitchen several months ago. This spot has a distinctly retro charm, thanks to the space-age-y formica tables, chrome-and-vinyl embellishments, yummy frappes ($4.75) and root-beer floats ($4.50), and, of course, a jukebox. Even if you don’t walk in hungry, you’ll soon find yourself hankering for a stack of glistening golden pancakes ($5.95) or one of the plates piled high with eggs ’n’ home fries, like the especially heaping My Three Sons, ($9.95). That includes eggs prepped however you choose, sausage or bacon, and pancakes or French toast. It’s worth mentioning that the gigantic menu also features a roster of substantial salads, burgers, classic sandwiches, and hot dinners, and that particular care is given to Greek specialties, like the velvety, melt-in-your-mouth moussaka ($8.95) and the olive-and-feta-heavy Mykonos Fair salad ($7.25). In true diner fashion, Zoe’s dishes out breakfast at all hours — didn’t your mom tell you breakfast is the most important meal of the day? And she never specified that you had to eat it in the morning.

Zoe’s Kitchen, located at 1105 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, is open Monday through Saturday, from 7 am to 10 pm, and on Sunday, from 8 am to 9 pm. Call 617.495.0055.


Issue Date: July 22 - 28, 2005
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