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Oleana’s spicy fideos and chickpeas with green chard
A Spanish dish worth toasting
BY LARYN IVY

When was the last time you craved a dish of toasted pasta with chickpeas? Unless you’ve been to Oleana, in Cambridge, the answer is probably never. But if you’ve tried chef/owner Ana Sortun’s spicy fideos and chickpeas with green chard, the answer might be: very recently.

The menu at Oleana is known for its intriguingly complex, layered Mediterranean flavors. Fideos, which originated in Spain, reflect the early Arabic influence on that country’s cuisine. For her version, Sortun crushes vermicelli pasta into short pieces and toasts them, creating a rich, nutty foundation. These crisp pieces are then simmered in a deliciously intricate broth with tomatoes, onions, ancho chilies, cocoa, saffron, chickpeas, and Swiss chard. The pasta plumps and softens as it absorbs the flavorful broth. The smooth texture of the chickpeas contrasts with the nutty, rich, and spicy pasta, creating a taste that may be hard to imagine, but is very easy to enjoy. Sortun finishes the dish with a dollop of orange-zest aïoli — a final tribute to its Spanish roots.

Sound like an unusual combination? Maybe. But rest assured — it works. The dish is available as either an appetizer or an entrée, so try the smaller portion if you’re skeptical. Be warned: cravings may start as soon as the next day.

Available for $8 as an appetizer or $15 as an entrée at Oleana, 143 Hampshire Street, in Cambridge. Call (617) 661-0505.


Issue Date: October 15 - 21, 2004
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