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Comfort foods
Three for the cold
BY LARYN IVY

When March comes in like a lion and shows no sign of transforming into the much-awaited lamb, sometimes there’s nothing to do but bundle up, hunker down, and comfort yourself with food. Most people have their own idea of the perfect culinary distraction from the cold, but chicken-noodle soup, lasagna, and macaroni and cheese are on nearly everyone’s top-10 list.

Just the idea of lasagna brings to mind Sunday dinners and warm, cozy kitchens. Where better to satisfy such a craving than in the North End, where the comforting smells of garlic and tomatoes greet diners as they enter almost any restaurant? One of the many locations for a lasagna dinner is L’Osteria, whose version of the Italian favorite features layers of ricotta and mozzarella between sheets of fresh pasta, topped with a rich, tangy tomato-meat sauce.

Pho Pasteur is known for its delicious Vietnamese specialties, and its noodle soups, called pho, are house favorites. Pho hoac mi ga, chicken-noodle soup, comes with a choice of thin white rice noodles or thicker yellow egg noodles. A generous serving of the noodles is surrounded by fresh broth delicately flavored with scallions, onions, and cilantro, and mixed with tender shredded chicken.

Perhaps the ultimate comfort food is macaroni and cheese — and we don’t mean the powdered-orange-cheese kind. On any given night at Harvard Gardens, a glance around the room will reveal plenty of fans of the mac-and-cheese alforno. Shell-shaped pasta is baked in a crock-like dish with a blend of rich, creamy cheeses, then topped with fresh bread crumbs and parsley. It’s almost good enough to make you grateful for the cold weather.

Lasagna is available for $7.50 for lunch or $10.95 for dinner at L’Osteria, 104 Salem Street, in Boston; call (617) 723-7847. Pho hoac mi ga is available in three sizes for $5.25, $5.95, and $6.95 at Pho Pasteur, 119 Newbury Street, in Boston; call (617) 262-8200. Mac-and-cheese alforno is available for $8 at Harvard Gardens, 316 Cambridge Street, in Boston; call (617) 523-2727.


Issue Date: March 25 - 31, 2005
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