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Olives’s molten-chocolate cake

BY ELIZABETH BOMZE

In an age of pluot crostadas and peppercorn ice cream, timeless desserts like molten-chocolate cake occupy a certain soft spot on the palates of nostalgic diners. Lately, straight-up versions of old standards like cheesecake, crème brûlée, and citrus soufflés are hard to come by; rather, they’re enhanced with goat cheese, infused with ginger, or punched up with Meyer lemons. And while this eclecticism is embraced by chefs and patrons alike, it challenges the former to create truly superb versions of retro classics.

That said, look no further than Todd English’s first kitchen, Olives, for a first-rate molten-chocolate cake. Warm from the fluid chocolate center to the tender, cakey exterior, this disc of bittersweet chocolate tempers even the most acute sweets craving. No frills — just a pool of raspberry coulis surrounded by a moat of dark-chocolate sauce, a perfectly rounded scoop of vanilla-bean-speckled ice cream, and a crisp chocolate-wafer top hat. And for those chocoholics who don’t share well, just be sure to pre-order the version made for two.

Available for $10 or $15 for a double portion at Olives, 10 City Square, in Charlestown. Call 617.242.1999.

In an age of pluot crostadas and peppercorn ice cream, timeless desserts like molten-chocolate cake occupy a certain soft spot on the palates of nostalgic diners. Lately, straight-up versions of old standards like cheesecake, crŹme bržlŽe, and citrus soufflŽs are hard to come by; rather, they’re enhanced with goat cheese, infused with ginger, or punched up with Meyer lemons. And while this eclecticism is embraced by chefs and patrons alike, it challenges the former to create truly superb versions of retro classics.

That said, look no further than Todd English’s first kitchen, Olives, for a first-rate molten-chocolate cake. Warm from the fluid chocolate center to the tender, cakey exterior, this disc of bittersweet chocolate tempers even the most acute sweets craving. No frills — just a pool of raspberry coulis surrounded by a moat of dark-chocolate sauce, a perfectly rounded scoop of vanilla-bean-speckled ice cream, and a crisp chocolate-wafer top hat. And for those chocoholics who don’t share well, just be sure to pre-order the version made for two.

Available for $10 or $15 for a double portion at Olives, 10 City Square, in Charlestown. Call 617.242.1999.


Issue Date: August 19 - 25, 2005
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