Those folks at Athan’s sure don’t make it easy for the dieters among us. Not only are their pastries about the prettiest, most-delectable little works of edible art around, but their gelato makes for a sweet and refreshing indulgence, too. They make the Italian treat themselves at their " workshop " in Brighton and sell it at their charming Brookline store, in flavors like praline, nougat, tiramisu, mango, hazelnut, fig, coconut, and crème caramel. Our favorites are chocolate — as toe-curlingly rich as mousse, only colder — and pistachio, but there’s no shame in trying them all. Have dinner across the street at the Washington Square Tavern — where, smartly, dessert isn’t served — before heading to Athan’s for a little scoop of heaven — er, cielo.

Available for $1.95 for a small, $2.50 for a medium, $4 for a large, and $7.25 for a quart at Athan’s, 1621 Beacon Street, in Brookline. Call (617) 734-7028.