We New Englanders certainly do have our opinions about that most indulgent of all sandwiches, the lobster roll. It has to be the perfect balance of the perfect ingredients: not too much mayonnaise, but not so little that it’s dry; a generous portion of fresh lobster meat, but not so much that it’s too unwieldy; and for God’s sake, served on a buttered, toasted hotdog bun, not slapped between two slices of white bread or — faux pas extraordinaire for many aficionados — piled onto a room-temperature hamburger bun.

The recently opened B&G Oysters, bless its crustacean heart, gets it exactly right with a more-than-reasonable six ounces of lobster, only lightly dressed — the better to taste the succulent chunks of meat — served on a toasted split-top hotdog bun alongside a batch of delicate French fries, sweet pickles, and a mound of fabulously tasty but not overpowering coleslaw that even a slaw-phobe would love. Sure, it’s a bit of a splurge at $21, but for lobster lovers, it’s worth every penny. We can’t say the same, alas, for the $3 Coke.

Available for $21 at B&G Oysters Ltd., 550 Tremont Street, in Boston. Call (617) 423-0550.