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Q&A
Belly up to the table

BY NINA WILLDORF

Feeling a little regretful about cramming who knows what in your pie hole at the Thanksgiving table? A generous slice of pecan pie here, a dribble of rich gravy there, and a few too many glasses of calorie-laden booze everywhere. Not to worry, says Walter Willett, chair of the department of nutrition at Harvard University’s School of Public Health and author of Eat, Drink, and Be Healthy: The Harvard Medical School Guide to Healthy Eating (Simon & Schuster, August 2001). Willett has refashioned the antiquated USDA Food Guide Pyramid, moving fat to a coveted spot at the bottom. Next Wednesday, he’ll take the stage at Cambridge’s Bread & Circus to tell you why the USDA’s 10-year-old pyramid is old news, why cookies can be good for you, and how to navigate the holiday table.

Q: So what’s wrong with the USDA Food Guide Pyramid?

A: It says that all types of fat are bad and should be eaten sparingly. This is inconsistent with what we’ve known for 40 years through research. Some types of fat are good, and only certain types of fat are to be avoided, like trans fat. Conversely, the dietary pyramid says we should load up on starches. That really has no scientific support. High starch intake, particularly refined grains, can really be a major health risk for people.

Q: What do you propose instead?

A: An alternative pyramid would have right at the bottom physical activity and weight control. You can eat too much of a good thing. Most people are going to be eating most of their calories from fat and carbohydrates. But there are healthy forms of carbos — whole grains — and healthy forms of fat like liquid veggie oils. As for dairy, the USDA pyramid includes two to three servings per day, but the evidence is just not there promoting health benefits. In fact, research shows that there may be harm from dairy consumption. I suggest that on top of a generally healthy diet to have perhaps one serving or none at all, and to take a lot of calcium supplements.

And then, sparingly, I have at the top, refined starches and sugar, unhealthy fats, like the ones from red meat, dairy, partially hydrogenated oils.

Q: So this is a tough time of year, eh?

A: [Laughs] Perhaps, although the biggest issue is eating too much of everything. It is very possible to have healthy foods all the way through the holidays and to not gain weight. In most situations you have a healthy option; you can have a healthy cookie or cake. You can make cookies with whole grain and fruit and nuts.

Q: You must have some secret indulgences?

A: Very good olive oil, cheeses that really do taste good.

Q: I just had a slice of pecan pie; am I doomed?

A: It probably could be very good because pecans are very healthy. If the crust is made out of a healthy fat, it could be fine. In most situations, foods can be made that are awful for us, or they can be very good for us.

Q: When was the last time that you ate pasta?

A: I go pretty light on pasta, and when we have pasta at home, we have whole-grain pasta. We tried out a lot of different kinds. Some of them were terrible; they tasted like rubber.

Q: What did you just eat for lunch?

A: Pita bread with stir-fried vegetables, shredded carrots, and string beans and squash. It was very good.

Walter Willett will speak at Bread & Circus, 340 River Street, in Cambridge, on Wednesday, December 5, at 6:30 p.m. Free. Call (617) 876-6990.

Issue Date: November 29 - December 6, 2001

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