ETHNIC DINING, quite obviously, means different things to different ethnicities. While hamburgers, meat loaf, and mashed potatoes might seem ethnically exotic to a native of China, Chinese dishes like tofu in ginger sauce, spicy noodles, and steamed dumplings might seem equally exotic to a native Midwesterner — it all depends on your frame of reference. If you were raised in America, the cuisines of Great Britain (if that’s not an oxymoron), Italy, and, to some degree, France (thanks, Julia) are all considered " normal " — that is, their flavors are familiar to our palates. For the purpose of this list, we are defining " ethnic food " as cuisine that is not familiar to the traditional American palate — food that dances on your tongue and slaps your taste buds into a state of silly delight. — Scott Kathan

Addis Red Sea 544 Tremont Street, Boston, (617) 426-8727. Ethiopian cuisine is one of Africa’s most refined, and yet, blessedly, you get to eat it all with your hands. Addis Red Sea offers an enchanting experience; the interior is lovely and transporting, and the food is exotic, sometimes fiery, and always transcendent. Especially in the hot summer months, nothing surpasses tearing off a piece of the sour, spongy injera bread to scoop up morsels of stews fragrant with spice — and then chasing it all down with a frosty African beer.

Atasca 279 Broadway, Cambridge, (617) 621-6991 and 50 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, (617) 621-6991. The newer location in Kendall Square wins points for its spaciousness and outside dining, but we prefer the more intimate and charm-filled original location a few blocks away, on Broadway. Here you will find bright Portuguese tiles and knickknacks augmenting a rustic-yet-refined cuisine that centers on fish (both fresh and dried) and shellfish, garlic, cured pork, olives and olive oil, potatoes, and fresh cheeses. Don’t miss the classic Carne de Porco à Alentejana, better known as " clams and ham, " which will have you fighting for scraps of bread to dip into the heavenly broth.

Elephant Walk 900 Beacon Street, Boston, (617) 247-1500; 2067 Mass Ave, Cambridge, (617) 492-6900. Half Cambodian, half French, and all wonderful. We like to mix it up by starting with French appetizers, shifting to Cambodian entrées, and then wrapping up by returning to the French side for dessert. Aside from their wonderfully foreign flavor profiles (especially from the Cambodian side of the menu), both Elephant Walk locations have surprisingly jumping bar scenes.

El Oriental de Cuba 416 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, (617) 524-6464. Yes, yes, we know that the Cuban sandwich was invented in Miami, but for a real taste of how a cubano might have tasted on that island, El Oriental is the place. This joint features plantains, pork, and rice and beans — with a healthy dose of zingy spice. But don’t expect palm trees and lapping surf: this is a no-frills, low-key place that is all about the food and the neighborhood.

El Pelón Taqueria 92 Peterborough Street, Boston, (617) 262-9090. You know it’s a good sign when a Mexican joint is packed with patrons who are native Mexicans, and a determined munch through El Pelón’s menu is proof that this might be the best Mexican cuisine in the city at any price. It is virtually impossible to spend more than $10 on a meal here, which is all the more impressive because chef/owner Nate Walker and crew do not skimp on the good stuff — nor do they bludgeon their diners with cheap rice and beans.

Fugakyu 1280 Beacon Street, Brookline, (617) 738-1268. The sushi shimmers with freshness, flavor, and wit. The tatami chambers offer privacy and intimacy. The waitstaff is incredibly efficient and polite to a fault. The décor is exotic and pristine. The menu of traditional Japanese dishes may be unfamiliar to the " round-eye " set, but we make it a point to try something new with each visit to Fugakyu, and we’ve yet to be disappointed.

Ginza 16 Hudson Street, Boston, (617) 338-2261. We know that Ginza features an extensive menu of Japanese delicacies that don’t include raw fish, but we admit that we’ve never had anything but the sushi at this late-night life saver. And that’s because we don’t like to mess with perfection.

Helmand 143 First Street, Cambridge, (617) 492-4646. The Helmand is absolutely the best Afghan restaurant we have ever been to. And while it is also the only Afghan restaurant we have been to, that shouldn’t dampen your expectations for this exotic and refined cuisine — this is wonderful food. Very vegetarian-friendly, too. The room is inviting, the service welcoming and warm, and the overall experience is nothing less than transporting.

House of Tibet Kitchen 235 Holland Street, Somerville, (617) 629-7567. Yes, you can get momos at Tremont 647, but for the real deal, we like to frequent House of Tibet Kitchen in Teele Square, where the funky flavors and fiery sauces are created with nirvana-like perfection. Although there are many mild dishes on the predictably veggie-heavy menu, we caution you that " hot " means hot in this place. We do wonder, however, how restaurant suppliers reply to requests for yak butter . . .

Istanbul Café 37 Bowdoin Street, Boston, (617) 227-3434. This small but bustling Persian restaurant on Beacon Hill does a brisk lunch business with discerning eaters who venture to seek out its hidden treasures. Aside from the absolutely wonderful food, Istanbul Café is also a prime summertime date location, as the room is dark, cool, and sexy.

JP Seafood Café 730 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, (617) 983-5177. This Korean-Japanese hybrid takes the now familiar Jae’s formula to new levels of exquisite freshness. What was once JP’s little secret is now known citywide as one of the most reputable sushi (and more) restaurants in the area. You know that the JP Seafood Café is on to something when people travel from Chinatown to check out its food — and it really is that good.

Kashmir 279 Newbury Street, Boston, (617) 536-1695. Yes, it is big and scene-y, and it is on the Newb. But don’t let those things distract you from the truly exceptional Indian food created by the kitchen magicians at Kashmir. There may be no better Boston restaurant for a vegetarian and a carnivore to dine together in wordless bliss. This is some of the best Indian food in the city.

Lala Rokh 97 Mt. Vernon Street, Boston, (617) 720-5511. Don’t expect falafel and shwarma at this Persian restaurant. Lala Rokh has long been known as one of the most romantic and alluring restaurants on the scene, and one visit shows why — the lighting is low, the service impeccable, and the food a revelation of strange-but-delicious flavors that elicit the following response from your mouth: " Huh? Hmm. Yum. "

Olé Mexican Grill 11 Springfield Street, Cambridge, (617) 492-4495; 203A Broadway, Arlington, (781) 643-2299. The two Olé locations have the look, smell, and feel of real Mexico. Granted, these are no low-rent taquerias — they most closely resemble the more upscale, tourist-driven restaurants of the new Mexico, but they’re authentic nonetheless. The Arlington location is darker and more intimate — if you don’t turn left upon entering, you’ll walk right into the open kitchen. The Inman Square outpost is brighter and more festive, both in appearance and in the liveliness of the crowd, and, of course, in the full bar that stocks a plethora of fine tequilas.

Penang 685 Washington Street, Boston, (617) 451-6373. A native Malaysian acquaintance claims that this is some of the best Malaysian food he’s had anywhere — including Malaysia. High praise indeed for this busy cusp-of-Chinatown hotspot (the Harvard Square location is also very good). Malaysian food is almost a pan-Asian affair, taking elements from Indian, Thai, Korean, and Chinese cuisines, but it also has its own character and charm. And we love it.

Pho Pasteur in Chinatown (the original) 682 Washington Street, Boston, (617) 482-7467. Pho Pasteur is a unique local chain in that each of its outposts is decidedly different. For the most authentic Vietnamese experience, we prefer the original location in Chinatown, where the food — and particularly the pho — crackles with East Asian liveliness. The food here isn’t as sanitized for Western palates as it might be at some of the other locations, and that’s all right with us.

Restaurante Cesaria 266 Bowdoin Street, Dorchester, (617) 282-1998. Ah, Cape Verde . . . we’ve long fantasized about visiting this small West African coastal country, and now the Restaurante Cesaria allows us to do so. Cape Verde is a former Portuguese colony, and its cuisine combines African, Iberian, and Brazilian influences to delicious effect. Lots of rice and beans, lots of pork, lots of fresh seafood, and a delicate and precise hand with spices make this a refreshing yet somehow wonderfully unfamiliar cuisine.

Rhythm & Spice 315 Mass Ave, Cambridge, (617) 497-0977. Goat and chicken, coconut, plantain, garlic and hot peppers, rice, fish, and fruit are the staples of the Caribbean diet, and you’ll find all these things on the menu at this Central Square oasis. You’ll also find a low-key bar scene that features the best rum selection north of Kingston (that’s Jamaica, not Rhode Island).

Seoul Food near Porter 1759 Mass Ave, Cambridge, (617) 864-6299. Fans of bibimbap, kimchee, and Korean pancakes will love the " Korean home cooking " that flies out of this tiny restaurant. Like many hole-in-the-wall eateries, Seoul Food (the restaurant formerly known as the Korean Deli) does a brisk take-out business; but to take out is to miss out on the charms of one of the nicest husband-and-wife teams we’ve ever had the pleasure of doing business with. The kimchee may be spicy, but the staff sure is sweet.

Tacos El Charro in JP 349 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, (617) 983-9275. Sure, there’s a mariachi band on the weekends, and yes, the Mexican-born owners have added the Tex-Mex staple of fajitas to the menu (by popular demand), but what you get at Tacos El Charro is still an authentic Mexican experience. If Mexican restaurants are judged by their mole, then this place is a winner; the sauce is a bewildering wonder of spices, chilies, nuts, and chocolate that elevates a simple grilled chicken breast to the most exotic of dining experiences. Just make sure you save room for the flan.

PHOTOS BY GEOFFREY KULA

Issue Date: July 16 - 30, 2002