Azure

Grandpa wants to go the old Ritz-Carlton dining room, and niece wants to try the nouvelle cuisine at the new one. Let's send this family to the Lenox Hotel, where the upscale Azure has some of the qualities of each, with a unifying theme of exotic seafood. Our picks off the opening menu favored the simpler ideas (goat-cheese flan, "Very Good Lobster Soup," rack of lamb, sherbets), over the more complicated dishes, and the Atlantic seafood (sauteed sea dabs with Peekytoe crab) over the Pacific stuff. But niece will get to sample at least three new species of fish and produce. And Uncle Carl will enjoy the extensive wine list.

Full review.

Price range for entrées: $20 - $36.