Best stuffed cabbage

The cold weather just begs for big, warm, nourishing food. Gone is the light fare of summer, those delicate treats that are held aloft on little cocktail napkins and fit between the tips of your fingers. Dig out your forks and knives, because fall is the season to gorge on hearty, meaty, belly-filling entrées. That's where the homey, humble stuffed cabbage comes in, and Ruth's Kitchen serves up a whopper. Sold by the pound ($6.49), this classic European staple, made from a family recipe, is deliciously simple and satisfying. Pale leaves of wilted cabbage are wrapped like a snuggly blanket around a heaping mound of ground turkey, steamed rice, and a mild tomato sauce. Nothing fancy. But, they tell us, "it's one of our customers' favorites."

Ruth's Kitchen, 401 Harvard Street, Brookline, (617) 734-9810.