Best chain coffee without guilt

Despite attempts at community participation, Starbucks seems to engender strong feelings -- and even rock-throwing -- among local activists. But when Peet's Coffee and Tea, also a national chain, arrived this year, no bricks went flying. The difference is in corporate tone. While Starbucks is famous for aggressive tactics in finding new locations, Peet's doesn't open next to mom-and-pop shops. And with fewer than 60 locations (after 34 years in the business), Peet's has made it clear it's not out to crush anyone. Although it was briefly owned by Starbucks, that connection was dissolved when it "became clear that one company wanted to conquer the world and one just wanted to make high-caliber coffee," says John Poloni, manager of the Harvard Square branch.

Peet's coffee is famously strong and is roasted fresh every day in Berkeley, California -- site of its home store, which is a mecca for caffeine-seeking pilgrims. "We don't pretend to have anything but a dark roast," says Poloni, but that clear vision doesn't limit the variety. Harvard Square regulars prefer the European notes of the Major Dickason's Blend, while Newton Centre patrons are wild about the Latin American blends. And though the coffee industry is rife with businesses that exploit growers, customers can buy Peet's with clear consciences. Poloni says the company pays more than the established fair cost for all its beans as a method of bolstering its suppliers. It also helps fund local services in Latin America and Indonesia, where many of the beans come from. The result: both the coffee and the corporate policies are easy to swallow.

Peet's Coffee and Tea, 100 Mt. Auburn Street, Cambridge, (617) 492-1844; 285 Harvard Street, Brookline, (617) 734-4725; and other locations in Lexington and Newton.