Best New York deli that's not

The lack of bona fide delis may be the weakest part of the Greater Boston food scene. We're talking about the kind of place where the meat is cut with care, the bread is fresh, sides of mac and cheese or cole slaw are de rigueur, and house-conceived specials are plentiful. But such a place does exist in these environs: the Tasty Gourmet in Medford. It's a small and functional storefront about a block from the backside of Tufts University. Workers, students of all ages, and all kinds of neighborhood types mix it up inside. Some come early for breakfast sandwiches and waffles, but the real flow starts just before midday, when the sandwich counter gets nice and busy. There's high-piled roast beef with cole slaw on rye. Nicely sloppy Reubens. Turkey subs of all types, with little twists like pepper jack, ranch dressing, bacon, and sprouts. Three-decker clubs. You won't find fancy-schmancy sandwiches here. You'll find good ones, served with just the right dose of personality. Just like you'd find in a deli on a main street in Northern Jersey.

Tasty Gourmet, 321B Boston Avenue, Medford, (781) 391-9969.