Best riff on pizza

One of Boston's worst culinary shortcomings is its lack of depth in the pizza category. But breadth is a different story. Case in point: Campo de Fiori in Harvard Square. Located, of all places, in the mallish Holyoke Street Arcade, Campo de Fiori specializes in an Italian flatbread called pane romano. This is essentially Roman street food, something that carries a fine status abroad but isn't so highly regarded here. Well, put aside your misgivings. What matters is that pane romano is thin, faintly sweet, cracker-crusty, and baked in eight-foot-long loaves. Since the dough is patted out and shaped by hand, there's an irregularity signaled by bubbles and gnarled corners and an uneven surface that makes this treat all the better.

It's served two ways: as a bread for fabulous sandwiches and as the basis for a pizza-like concoction with toppings that include gorgonzola, prosciutto, tomatoes, wild mushrooms, and caramelized onions. It's this latter incarnation that is the true treat. The toppings are layered on thinly, the true Southern Italian way, and they are fresh as can be, their flavors focused and luscious against the crispy bread. A single order is both cheap and very generous.

Campo de Fiori, 1352A Mass Ave, Holyoke Street Arcade, Cambridge, (617) 354-3805.