Best way to contemplate death while dining
On the face of it, images of death don't seem very conducive to hearty eating. But the playful skulls and
skeletons on the walls of El Pelón Taqueria, many of them original Mexican folk art, are surprisingly
upbeat. "In Mexico on the Day of the Dead on November 1," explains proprietor/chef Nate Walker, "people
would put food and drink in the cemeteries so that lost relatives could come back and eat their favorite
dishes." Walker isn't trying to lure the deceased, however. His inviting West Fenway bistro instead
attracts local diners who find themselves gently introduced to Mexican cuisine. And at hard-to-beat prices:
burritos, tortas, and tacos are all under $5. But, as Walker insists, "this is no Taco Bell." Everything on
the menu is distinctively delicious, and often El Pelón will offer more daring items, such as tongue tacos
and pozole, a traditional pork-and-hominy stew. Then there is "Señor John Delisle's Sauce," named after the
winner of a recent recipe competition for concocting the hottest condiment. Sounds suitable for those with
a death wish.
El Pelón, 23 Peterborough Street, Boston, (617) 262-9090.
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