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Best Japanese restaurant

Japanese students and expats crowd the booths at Ginza, while kimono-clad waiters carry platters of fresh sushi styled by three chefs. It's sushi heaven for Bostonians who can't get to, say, Tokyo. Yes, there are Japanese barbecue and hot-pot dishes, but it's the maki - stuffed variously with soft-shell crab, eel, flying-fish roe, and more - that dazzles.

Jae's dazzles in quite another way, wowing devotees with a pan-Asian menu that takes on Korean short ribs, Thai noodles, and sashimi alike. From one storefront, it's spread into a citywide empire. Lately, the chef/owner has made health-extending changes to his preparation - cutting cream, reducing sodium, and using only non-hormone-treated beef and organic tofu. Without sacrificing flavor, the place is working hard to live up to its motto: "Eat at Jae's, live forever."

Ginza, 16 Hudson Street, Boston, (617) 338-2261; 1002 Beacon Street, Brookline, (617) 566-9688. Jae's, various locations.


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