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Best late-night restaurant

Ch-ch-changes. That's what Deli Haus fans are dealing with. For years, it combined a cottage-kitsch interior with a working-class menu that pleased construction workers, bike messengers, and vegan anarchists. But despite its new moniker - Underground - it's become a bit more traditional. It's all about sandwiches and burgers now, with the breakfasts gone and its patrons as likely to carry Palm Pilots as skateboards. Still serving till 3 in the morning - after Puritan Boston shuts down completely - it hasn't sworn off Boston's best Reuben sandwich. Good thing, or our voters might want a recount.

In the brief hours when Deli Haus/Underground isn't open, Phoenix readers nosh at the Blue Diner near South Station. Not a diner anymore (in price or structure), and not overwhelmingly blue, it offers stick-to-your-ribs food for a surreal mix of late-night clubbers, drag queens, caffeine-crazed college students, out-of-town businesspeople, and insomniacs. A glance through its window at 4 a.m. could convince you that Boston is the city that never sleeps - a lie, to be sure, but a tasty one here.

Underground (formerly Deli Haus), 476 Comm Ave, Boston, (617) 247-9712; Blue Diner, 150 Kneeland Street, Boston, (617) 695-0087.


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