Best frontier bistro

Hear the word "bistro," and chances are you think urban, bustling, a step above the neighborhood café. Chances are also good that you think trendy and hip, à la the city's Back Bay and South End neighborhoods. You probably never think Roslindale. But that's about to change, thanks to the newly minted Birch Street Bistro. Since this intimate eatery opened its doors in the heart of Roslindale Square last May, it has roared with vitality. There's the lively jazz, the buzzing conversation, the sounds of free-flowing wine. There's also chef Steven Oliveto's sumptuous and satisfying menu, which leans toward the exotic. Like the duck-confit spring rolls or the Gorgonzola-filled gnocchi or the Hawaiian ahi-yellowfin tuna tartare. And of course, the staple steak and chicken dishes are sure to please the less adventurous. All in all, Birch Street offers as delightful an evening as any of Boston's fashionable establishments -- but better, since you get to avoid the hassle of driving downtown.

Birch Street Bistro, 14 Birch Street, Roslindale, (617) 323-2184.