Best indication of Charlestown's growing hipness

On a warm September evening, the line of would-be diners stretched from the maitre d' stand out the door and onto the sidewalk. One of Newbury Street's trendy watering holes? Nope. A popular Beacon Hill boîte? No dice. This was, amazingly enough, the recent scene at Charlestown's latest haven of hip, Mezé Estiatorio. And this wasn't a line of people clamoring to score a table at a long-standing, long-acclaimed culinary institution: this was the upscale Greek restaurant's third weekend in business. Maybe the masses were coming for the food -- with dishes like astakos me makaronia (lobster and pasta with baby spinach, feta cheese, and avgolemono sauce) and moussaka, the restaurant quickly hit culinary high notes -- or perhaps it was the drink: Mezé boasts a menu of more than half a dozen varieties of ouzo. Maybe it was the convivial atmosphere or the traditional Greek music played live in the dining room. Whatever the reason, they were coming. And coming. And coming. Who says the restaurant business is in a downswing?

Mezé Estiatorio, 100 City Square, Charlestown, (617) 242-MEZE; www.mezeboston.com.