Best barbecue

In the three-room circus that is Redbones, in Davis Square, the star performers have long since died -- and it's the dining audience that gets to go to hog heaven (or, in some cases, the bovine beyond). Ribs and brisket, pulled pork and corned-beef-and-pork hash, even fried catfish -- it's all here, and so are the fixings: candied yams and collard greens, fried okra and succotash, spectacular hush puppies and corn fritters. And to top it off, what else but pecan or sweet-potato pie? Granted, hours hence you may feel like you've gone to hell, but that's between you and your own ribs.

Audacious though the name may be, Blue Ribbon BBQ has tons of fans in Arlington and Newton who agree that it really is a winner. The menu's comparatively small, but it boasts its share of gems, including a burrito stuffed with burnt ends and a hot smoked-sausage platter with corn bread and homemade pickles. And what this pair of pit stops lacks in ambiance, they make up for in good nature, thoughtfully offering a platter of sides for the wandering vegetarian.

Redbones, 55 Chester Street, Somerville, (617) 628-2200. Blue Ribbon BBQ, 908 Mass Ave, Arlington, (781) 648-7427; 1375 Washington Street, Newton, (617) 332-2583.