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Best Mexican restaurant

As fast-food places go, the Beacon Street branch of Anna's Taqueria is a truly pretty little place, with cheery yellow walls, ceramic chandeliers, old wooden benches, and thriving ficus trees. What's more, as fast-food places go, Anna's repertoire is remarkably fresh and flavorful. Wisely limited to burritos, tacos, and quesadillas (the Mexican platters are simply deconstructions of same), the fare is nevertheless literally filled with surprises like tender, zesty carnitas (pork stewed with green chilies) and whopping chunks of colorful grilled vegetables. Economy and efficiency are just icing on the cake (or guacamole on the chips, as the case may be).

"Authenticity" just isn't part of the vocabulary at Harvard Square's Border Café -- after all, neither is a lick of Spanish. But "fun," often preceded by "drunken," definitely is. So is "kitsch." Among electric chandeliers, sombreros, and steer skulls, Border buffs feast on enough fajitas, tostadas, and enchiladas to choke a burro. And there ain't nothin' wrong with that -- or at least nothing a margarita or two won't fix.

Anna's Taqueria, 1412 Beacon Street, Brookline, (617) 739-7300; 446 Harvard Street, Brookline, (617) 277-7111; 236A Elm Street, Somerville, (617) 666-3900; 822 Somerville Avenue, Cambridge, 617-661-8500. Border Café, 32 Church Street, Cambridge, (617) 864-6100.



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