Best Vietnamese restaurant

If you've never had a single bite of Vietnamese cuisine, you might gather by the names of local restaurants that it has something to do with pho. If you've actually tried Vietnamese cuisine, then you know that it has a lot to do with pho, i.e., noodle soup. And we know where you probably tried it first -- at Pho Pasteur or Pho Lemongrass. Both restaurants are known for providing solid introductions to the dish and its many variations -- those with rice noodles and those with egg noodles, those with beef, chicken, or seafood, and so on.

But what's next? Well, at Pho Pasteur -- whose five locations run the gamut in terms of ambiance -- you might explore the array of vermicelli-noodle dishes, sprightly with mint, shredded lettuce, peanuts, and nuoc cham (the staple hot sauce). Meanwhile, at the pleasantly decked-out Pho Lemongrass in Brookline, the influence of French occupation in Vietnam offers intrigue, such as the rich shrimp toast -- grilled French bread spread with butter and shrimp mousse, then served with plum sauce. Sure, there may be more authentic Vietnamese eateries in town, but there aren't likely to be more accommodating ones.

Pho Pasteur, various locations. Pho Lemongrass, 239 Harvard Street, Brookline, (617) 731-8600.