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Best use of a fry-o-lator
Here's a little noontime quiz: when asked by your lunch companions what you're in the mood for, how often do you say, "Oh, just something nice and light"? Now, how often are you actually thinking, "Damn hell, something deep-fried and super-nasty"? Bonus points for picturing that something as coming from Galleria Umberto. This no-frills-and-for-that-matter-barely-any-basics rosticceria in the North End enjoys an almost-cult following for its authentic, not to mention dirt-cheap, renditions of Sicilian snacks such as arancini - breaded and deep-fried rice balls the size of oranges (hence the name) stuffed with cheese and peas or, as in this case, ragù - and panzarotti, elliptical mashed potato-and-cheese croquettes. Crisp and crunchy on the outside, gooey yet textured on the inside, Umberto's goodies are the best we've had outside of the train station in Palermo, and way out of the league of your average jalapeño popper. You might not feel virtuous afterward, but you sure will feel good.

Galleria Umberto, 289 Hanover Street, Boston, (617) 227-5709.


Issue Date: November 11, 2004
 









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