Best second impression
When Jer-ne - phonetic for "journey" - first opened back in 2001, the reaction was a knee-jerk of negativity; critics claimed the fusion-oriented restaurant's edge didn't cut so much as chafe, and it seemed to rub Boston's relatively conservative dining public the wrong way too. But three years, a couple of drawing boards, and one new chef - Ulrich Koberstein - later, the Ritz on the Common's signature restaurant is as quiet a success as it had been a flagrant fiasco. In a contemporary-yet-warm setting that glows at sunset, with an exhibition kitchen to add a dash of drama, diners are digging into dishes that fuse less and fulfill more: sushi-grade salmon enters into a delightful dalliance with its smoked counterpart; Madeira and truffles lend musky dignity to grown-up macaroni and cheese; house-made sorbets in flavors such as blood-orange and mojito are the utmost in velvety-yet-juicy refreshment. Maybe Jer-ne should take a new name: Des-te-na-shen.

Jer-ne, Ritz-Carlton Boston Common, 12 Avery Street, Boston, (617) 574-7176.