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Best Spanish/tapas restaurant
Wham! Bam! Whap! Tapas! That dynamic duo, Dalí and Tapéo, have done it again. Just how to do they do it? In true Spanish style - with lots of verve but little fuss. Lace-curtain-and-lavender quaint on the outside, Dalí is a true-to-its-name wonderland on the inside, all copper-and-candle glow. And after all these years, the food still elicits marvel, striking an admirable balance between simple classics (spicy patatas bravas, grilled chorizo) and more intricate or contemporary tapas (fried cheese with honey and onions, fried frog legs in green sauce). Months or even years after an experience here, fans claim, you'll know what Salvador Dali meant by the phrase "persistence of memory."

Meanwhile, over in Back Bay, a similar sangria-fueled experience awaits - but not so similar that you feel the sister restaurants are identical twins. Tapéo maintains its own vibe, one lighter on the surreal whimsy and heavier on the urbane buzz. With its mix of brick and copper, ceramic and red clay, it feels like an authentic underground tapería (less so the airier, lighter second floor). As for the menu, it can usually call at least one or two dishes its own, but it's otherwise the same as at Dalí - and that's a good thing. Refusing to fix what ain't broken, both restaurants guarantee their joint winning streak rarely falters, either.

Dalí, 415 Washington Street, Somerville, (617) 661-3254, www.dalirestaurant.com; Tapéo, 266 Newbury Street, Boston, (617) 267-4799, www.tapeo.com.


Issue Date: November 11, 2004
 









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