The Boston Phoenix
1998

outdoors


Best steam-powered subway

On Nantucket, the new-money snobs fly to and from their Trump-esque saltbox palaces, sniffing at the nonmillionaires who take the subway to the island. The subways in question are not the typical Boston trains zipping through tunnels, but three-story ships run by the Steamship Authority from Hyannis. Slower and undoubtedly more working-class than a private jet, these boats are actually spacious, comfortable, and fun. The upper deck is open to the sun and wind, a bracing atmosphere for a journey. The main deck, though enclosed, offers great views of the wide-open sea and the eventual approach (or retreat) of the island, along with nonsubway amenities like bathrooms and food (served up by Irish teenagers).

The typical boat takes two hours to make the trip, though there are also fast boats that cut the time in half. The fast ferries, however, tend to fill up more and run less than the slow ones, and are more subject to the weather. Relatively untroubled by the elements, the larger boats run year-round; we not only enjoyed our ride through the swells preceding Hurricane Bonnie, but slept through half of it on a bench in the open air. For $11 per person (each way) you get a relaxing, hassle-free ride -- which ends in a beautiful place. And you can't say that about the Red Line.

Steamship Authority, South Street Dock, Hyannis. (508) 477-8600.

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