Best ticket to Seoul

At the Korean Deli, the robust flavors of Seoul will work magic on any palate. Look into the back of this tiny, no-frills restaurant, and you feel as though you're peering into someone's home kitchen -- an impeccably clean one, at that. Although the décor is simple, consisting of a few bonsai trees and a battery of plain tables that seat about 15 people, the traditional Korean food is an exquisite counterpoint to the bland surroundings. Try any of the bi bim bap offerings -- vegetable, tofu, beef, pork -- or the various glass-noodle plates (all are under $10 at lunch), and you'll fell like a house guest of the husband-and-wife team that owns and runs the traditional eatery. There's also a luscious beef or chicken teriyaki for fans of the Japanese-style marinade. Timid taste buds should beware of the deliciously tongue-searing kim chee -- it tastes as though it's been pickled in red pepper for a thousand years. But if you're into that kind of thing, take a container home for $3.50.

Korean Deli, 1759 Mass Ave, Cambridge, (617) 864-6299.