It’s hard to imagine, but ages ago, some Europeans believed eating eggplant would cause insanity, hence the Latin name mala insana ("mad apple"), which in turn led to the Italian melanzana. Others, believing the strangely shaped purple vegetable to have aphrodisiac powers, affectionately dubbed it the "apple of love." Thomas Jefferson himself became smitten on a trip to France and returned with seeds to plant in his garden, thus introducing it to the United States. Today it seems as if eggplant is everywhere. And chef/owner Michael Schlow of Via Matta showcases it in his crunchy eggplant appetizer.

This starter is an innovative twist on the sometimes-tired eggplant parmesan. A thick slice of eggplant is coated with seasoned breadcrumbs and sautéed until the breading is crunchy and the silky vegetable inside is tender. The dish is then topped with diced sweet tomatoes that have been marinated in basil and olive oil, and finished with generous shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano. The contrast of the cool, juicy tomatoes and the salty cheese against the crispy yet tender meaty vegetable will make even the most steadfast carnivore swoon. Hmm ... maybe those Europeans weren’t so far off, after all.

Available for $11 at Via Matta, 79 Park Plaza, in Boston. Call (617) 422-0008.