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Soleil Café
Hip to be in Teele Square
BY NINA MACLAUGHLIN
Previous Columns

Teele Square is like Davis Square’s responsible, unassuming big brother. It’s grown out of the so-hip-it-hurts stage into cozy confidence, without the pretense or precociousness of its scene-stealing sibling. Tiny Teele no doubt shares an eclectic streak with Davis — they’re definitely from the same Somerville family, with young crowds, international eateries, bars, and boutiques. But while Davis nabs all the attention, self-consciously cool like an angst-ridden teen, Teele maintains the steady self-assurance of an older sibling who’s already figured it out. And Soleil Café, which recently opened in the center of Teele Square, fits right into Teele’s casual, eclectic comfort, and has its own set of siblings running the show.

Chef Bryan McConnaughey and his sister and co-owner, Beth Ann Dalton, pooled their respective experiences — in culinary schools in London and Switzerland, in restaurants in Burlington, Vermont, and Martha’s Vineyard, in business school in Boston — to create Soleil. The high-ceilinged, large-windowed, cheery café serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Each of the menu’s 20 sandwiches, with fancy-pants ingredients like smoked salmon, blue cheese and Brie, portobello mushrooms, cranberry-mango mayo, saffron aïoli, and tandoori turkey, cost six bucks or less. The Saigon sandwich ($5.50) has layers of thin strips of pork, carrots, cukes, red onion, cilantro, and chili-fish sauce, all fresh and flavorful; Cajun rémoulade spices up the grilled-shrimp-filled Charleston sandwich ($5.50).

The deli case holds a selection of prepared foods, and a recent dinner special included a main course (one protein: salmon, beef, or chicken) and two sides (a rotating selection of about eight different temptations) for $7.99, or a choice of three sides for $6.99. The three-sides option was more than enough for a meal, and offered an opportunity to sample the fresh, summery Asian slaw and the soft, smooth, and starchy sesame noodles with peanut sauce. The curious grilled rice cake with edamame was slightly larger than a hockey puck, with a moist, charred sweetness similar to a roasted marshmallow.

And speaking of sweet, Soleil offers a selection of pastries, cakes, muffins, brownies, and cookies ($1–$2.25). One brownie-shaped cookie bar boasts chunks of chewy ginger and chocolate chips, a personal dessert dream come true — and so good it nearly brought tears to my eyes. It was a whole heck of a lot better than a charley horse inflicted by a bullying older brother.

Soleil Café, located at 1153 Broadway, in Somerville, is open Monday through Friday, from 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and on Saturday, from 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Call (617) 625-0082.


Issue Date: August 1 - 7, 2003
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