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Singh’s Roti Shop
Getting your goat
BY HARRY KELLY
Previous Columns

The sign atop Singh’s Roti Shop advertises "West Indian Dining," perhaps to lure new customers who, well, don’t know what roti is. Those stepping inside this tiny storefront will quickly learn they’ll be sampling a taste of Trinidad — the large Trinidadian flag on the wall is a strong hint, as is the high-energy soca music (a blend of soul and calypso) playing at party volume on a stereo in the small side room.

In Trinidad, roti shops are as much a feature of the landscape as Dunkin’ Donuts are in Boston. Fans of Indian food know that roti is flat, pastry-like bread, seasoned and lightly filled. When the British brought Indians to Trinidad to work on their plantations, the Indians took along roti and the other basics of their cuisine. The culinary interplay between Indians and Africans (also "brought" to Trinidad by the British) produced Trinidadian cuisine, which is essentially an Afro-Indian fusion.

At roti shops, roti refers not only to the bread but to the wrap created by spooning fillings (usually curried meat, potatoes, and veggies) onto a "skin" fresh from the grill and folding the skin over four sides to form a savory package. Along with serving rotis filled with boneless chicken ($7.49), beef ($6.69), and pork ($6.69), Singh’s stays true to its Trini roots by offering shrimp ($8.49) and goat ($7.49). Veggie fillings include channa (a hearty chickpea dhal cranked with cumin) and delicately spiced pumpkin. Trinidadian cuisine is built for heat, so ask for a side of the house hot sauce to ratchet up the burn to your preferred level. As for the goat, consider trying it on a dinner plate with rice and two vegetables ($7.69). Rotis at Singh’s are generous: one split into halves should satisfy both you and your lunch companion, making for a cheap and filling curry hit.

Singh’s also offers polouries, or dumplings ($1), and doubles ($1.50), which are smaller roti filled with channa, plus roasted chickpeas and fresh mango ($1 each), and a selection of soca CDs with titles such as Chutney Soca, Xtra Spicy Chutney, and Rum Didn’t Kill Meh.

Singh’s Roti Shop, located at 692 Columbia Road, in Dorchester, is open Monday through Friday, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and on Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call (617) 282-7977.


Issue Date: April 2 - 8, 2004
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